I have a devil who lives in North or South Carolina somewhere who once commented that his girlfriend at the time, now wife, didn’t like to take it in the face. OK. So fair enough. I don’t blame her for not wanting his spunkiness all over her caked up face, then again, what’s wrong with a little spunkiness…?
It all started in class one day over a discussion about Tiger Woods’ infidelity. A certain news article mentioned that day of a term referring to women over forty. The term is called “ cougar,” and in the dictionary a cougar is referred to as a mountain lion that preys on young meat, namely rabbit. The cougar is a fairly small and agile creature that has a very keen sense of smell and very quick; I had to explain this a bit to a group of students in order to give them a sense of what was happening with Tiger Woods according to media reports.
Now for the record, I think it’s highly unfair for Mr. Woods to accept 100% of the blame – it takes two to tango. I’m sure none of his busty bunk mates lost any endorsements over their willful sexticipation! These women knew he was married from the start, and I’m sure some of them were involved in other relationships too at the time.
(“Ever since the 70s, when American women started asserted their rights the legal system has become so unfair and partial when it comes to legal issues regarding male and females - women always get the favorable ruling. ”)
At any rate, the term cougar has an opposite meaning that refers to Japanese girls under 25 who over emphasize the importance of cosmetic beauty. The term is called “Christmas cake face” because they love to pack the make-up on day after day in layer after layer of chicken grease! They hate getting kissed or touched by anybody, not just the obvious pervs, not even dad gets a kiss! They can also be some of the most boring women to be around sometimes.
For me, there’s nothing like the natural clean face of a Japanese woman in the morning. The dimly sunlit room early in the dawn lit hours of the early morning, warm blankets and smooth skin, skin shipping. I guess this is why I’m drawn to the natural beauty of Tohoku women. Taut muscles wrapped in smooth creamy tofu like skin.
The Christmas cake vs. Cougar analogy is good to understand because it gives you a sense of what to look for in Japan and that there’s a fetish for everything here which makes this country a virtual paradise for hedonist. What is normal and socially acceptable behavior here in Japan may not be the same in other countries. If you like shallow and artificially based relationships where both man and woman go through the motions then the xmas cake type is the obvious choice. If you want somebody with a little more spontaneity, then the cougar types are the best. .
At any rate, I also had to explain what it is about Japanese girls that attract foreign men , and so knowing me, and my infatuation with the(cougar) Jukujo, and pairing Mr. Woods’ incident with older women, and then having to explain that to semi-fluent young adult English learners was very interesting indeed. A barrage of questions ensued after opening up this discussion. I was fielding questions like a White House press secretary.
Beauty for most young Japanese women has a lot to do with either cosmetic enhancements or drinking collagen. Very little has anything to do with exercise or healthy living. Everything about beauty is either drug or food induced here in Japan, or no food at all for many. Many young women here rarely ever mention the spa or hot spring as being a part of that beauty regiment. I think it’s because many of them are offended by the natural smell of a mineral hot spring and would rather fly to Korea to get a face pack and a mud bath instead. Most Korean and Chinese women would rather fly to Japan and enjoy a nice hot spring instead! Opposites…
(“If there was an over the counter medication called “Beauty” every Jgirls would be all over it in a heart beat. Pop a pill and that’s it. Or, rub this cream on your skin for 3 weeks and “Walla” beautiful, guaranteed results or your money back ”).
Cougars are more sensually appealing for me than Christmas cake types mainly because they have reached the point where they can start to accept who they are and how they look, nobody cares how they look anyways, it’s almost like they get dressed up in vain and become frustrated at the lack of attention they receive on a daily basis. It’s as if in order for them to settle down and be normal they have to be rejected based on their age and looks. The more curvy and sophisticated a Japanese woman looks the more intimidating she is to a weak Japanese man.
I fielded a question from a student about who I liked exactly, like a name of someone famous in Japan. Immediately I said “ Shibata Rie!” The group jeered me right there on the spot! “Asian beauty? Do you really think she’s beautiful?” a girl said to my right. I said “no,” and I explained to her that her natural features and her complete lack of beauty is what attracts me to her. Her near flawless complexion and lankiness; a plain Jane type with strong Asiatic features – simple and clean looking.
There’s a term in Japanese a friend taught me called (せいそきれい or 清楚きれい/seiso.kirei) which means neat and clean looking woman. These types are literally becoming extinct nowadays as the modern Japanese woman begins to emerge on the scene taking her place in a traditionally all male dominated society. She’s throwing off all the old vestiges of a bygone era where women put a premium on inner beauty as well as exterior beauty through natural means. Now we have gaudy make-up artist who smear on the grease on the trains and other public spaces caring nothing about anybody or anything. Dressing prim and proper is no longer considered stylish, but rather old and dated. It’s a real pity.
There is no proverbial answer for why foreign men prefer Japanese/Asian women. I assume it was the madam butterfly mystique during General McAuthors(sp?) rule that created this docile and easy to please submissive Japanese woman that we all know now to be completely false. So what’s this attraction…..?
Some Western women claim that men who have small penises prefer Asian women over Western women. I say, nothing could be further from the truth! I think men in general have a special place in their hearts for Asian women period regardless of penis size. The whole entire spectrum of the male species is attracted to Asian women in a general sense for a lot of different reasons, I believe. My reasoning was the simple beauty model mentioned previously. In America we used to have the Southern Bell types like Marilyn Monroe and Anna Nicole Smith who used to carry themselves in a similar fashion until Madonna came along twenty years later and changed everything!
The issue surrounding Mr. Woods’ cougar mistress, Theresa Rogers, is one of longevity. She was sexually involved with Tiger before and after he got married, making her the longest fling Mr. Woods has ever had. I don’t blame him either. Older women have a charm about them that makes you not want to leave them. This part I can clearly sympathize with Mr. Woods.
In the end, when everything finally comes together we have the aged simple beauty that wins over the Christmas cake face in terms of overall desirability for me. Mr. Woods was just one example, I could probably give a dozen or so more examples of what men choose over vs. what’s perceived by mainstream society. Over the years I have met so many guys who have forsaken the beautiful little cup cake doll face, for the not so attractive, sometimes aged simple homebody types . I have witnessed these relationships stand the test of time many times.
Final note: This devil I mentioned previously at the beginning wouldn’t even exist had it not been for my benevolence and kindness. Had he never met the woman I introduced to him he probably would’ve blown his own brains out binging on a bottle of Jack Daniels - Daniel. Some people will never understand how the world works. This person will forever be in ‘my pocket’ until he squares his soul debt away with me. I will find him again.
A few times a month I teach an English for Obasaans club around my area. I get the greatest amount of enjoyment teaching these women, they are so fun. Once a month we have a pot luck and they each bring their own homemade specialties. This week was natural foods week, and boy, did they bring some very unique dishes. The way it works is that I eat while they explain to me how they made their own dishes in English. Most of them just sit there taking notes and eating a little here and there.
(N.B. These are students only!)
The rice dish you see on the left is full of fava beans and garlic with bacon. Very delicious. And then there’s the pudding like dish which is plain yogurt and dried mangos. Next to that is a tofu cake full of rum raisins and vanilla extract. Yum!
From the noon position is a cinnamon and walnut apple cake made with all organic ingredients. At one o'clock there’s a lemon cake with lemon peels on top – Fabulous. The bottom half was made with oranges and at nine o'clock there's the mango cake with coconuts sprinkled at the top.
All of these cakes were made by using a rice cooker! Yes, I know what you are thinking….But really, there’s a technique that these mothers employ to produce delicious cakes using a standard rice cooker machine, no ovens.
In ancient China, there was a garden once called “ The Garden of the Forgotten Greats,” which was basically a retirement home for the Emperor’s concubines once they had reached a certain age. That’s what I think about at times when I’m with these women, that at one point in their lives they were ‘greats’ and that they had meant something to someone and now that they have lived passed their prime are forgotten to the point that they longer even cast a shadow in society. Left to fate.
When I think about who’s working tirelessly behind the scenes to make Japan a reality, I think of them, the unsung heroes who work in the kitchens and in the crèches. Learning English gives them a chance to be free and to escape from the mundane routines of their everyday ordinary lives. For me, they are a part of the true beauty of Japan too. They are quintessentially the backbone of the nation, especially at a time when the young see no future here in their own country who lack talent and common sense, stupid and without a clue. It’s the Japanese mother who represents Japan for me, in the broader sense.
It’s time for me to shift from winter mode to spring mode. I know it’s a bit late for that. It’s also time for me to introduce yet another sake, a food item, and a lovely Jukujo too. Leading into spring mode I want my readers to understand from my own perspective what I consider the most beautiful elements in Japan, but let me not get ahead of myself either, let me take this post one step at a time.
First of all, Japan without Shinto, the indigenous religion of this country, isn’t Japan. And with that in mind I’d like to introduce one of my favorites goddesses. Her name is Ame-no-Uzume-no-mikoto. She is known in Shinto lore as the goddess of dawn and revelry. She is worshiped today as the Great Persuader, and The Heavenly Alarming Female. She’s also a woman who revels in her sensuality. This is a beautiful Kami, by the way. Nihonshu and Shinto go hand in hand. You can’t have Shinto without the nihonshu, and vise versa
The nihonshu listed below is called Oze no Shimizu. It’s a rare jizake from northern Gunma. 
This is by far not a famous brand, but a modest and worthy sake best enjoyed while sitting in a hot spring on a snowy day with a Jukujo goddess. It’s not the featured sake for tonight though, just a lead up from winter to spring, so farewell winter and thank you for the warm and fond memories. I thank the goddesses for Sami and such other wonderful experiences.
Tonight’s featured sake is called Gikyo!
And she hails from Aichi Prefecture, home of the Samurai Spirit and birth place of Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu, and the final resting place of Hideki Tojo.
The Brewery is called Yamachu Honke 山忠本家
The Brand is called Gikyo 義侠
Product: Jyunmai Nama Genshu. 純米生原酒
Varietal: Gohyakumangoku (五百万石）Grown and harvested in Toyama prefecture.
Year: 21BY Harvested 2009
Polished Ratio 60%
When it comes to flavor profiles, in order to keep things simple, remember, those who like a sake with strong rice flavor characteristics generally go for Jyunmai. This sake “Gikyo” hits the nail right on the head. It has one of the best rice notes of all the sake I have tried in recent memory. Mellow, sexy, and round. Full taste, well matured to the max! And you know what’s coming next….Yes. You guessed it baby. A Jukujo pic! But before that, let me leave you with this. 90% of all of my sake choices were carefully researched and backed by other experts. Some were award winning picks while others were just personal favorites. Gikyo one such sake that is receiving big attention some parts of Japan.
Hailing from Okayama Prefecture another beauty to behold, Shimura Reiko and she’s 38 years old. I chose her, like this sake, because they both come from West Japan.
From personal experience I have been to Okayama, and have met both young and old people. Even some of my clients are from this prefecture and many of them have told me that women from West Japan tend to wear heavier make up than other prefectures. This is fine with me as long as its done well. It’s done well on these women, and then some.
She notices the smallest detail, like with the pink cherry blossom in her hands. Spring starts like that, small, unassuming, delicate, and gently stoking the flames of passion. Could she be Ame-no-Uzume in the flesh? Her perspiration is sake. Happy rock which she sits upon. That hard object.
The final element or the fourth beautiful essence is food, but not just anything. It’s called Izumibashi’s Daiginjyo Miso! Yes, a sake brewery made this miso.
The dragonfly mark on the package symbolizes the brewers efforts towards growing farm products with reduced amounts of agricultural chemicals. By reducing the use of agricultural chemicals the natural environment can be restored to its natural balance which in turn will restore the population of the dragonfly that had once inhabited the rice fields there.
The soybeans used for this miso are called Tsukui Zairai soybeans. Zairai meaning” the native variety,” this soybean is a local breed of Tsukui, Kanagawa. The other ingredient: Yamadanishi, is the premium sake rice varietal used for the koji( a kind of mold on boiled rice); a starter for the fermentation of sake, soy sauce, and miso. What distinguishes this miso from others is that no other producer makes the koji in such a careful manner, especially with adherence to sanitary conditions. This miso was made with the utmost care and attention to detail which explains why it’s so delicate and natural tasting.
Gods and Goddesses eat, drink, and be merry. Humans, on the other hand, still struggle to find the connect with this. It could be a human flaw. For me it’s got to be Shinto, Jukujo, Nihonshu, good Japanese food and onsen. These are the five greatest elements of Japan.
Got an e-mail the other night from a stranger named Sami? It’s not that unusual for me to receive spam mail, but this one was just a tad bit different; it was in Japanese and it was an invitation to meet somewhere, but at a specific location around Kanagawa.
This also may explain why I kept receiving blocked caller calls on my cell all day last week too, I think. I never answer calls with no number displayed. So I had to backtrack and find out who this person was, and why this person was e-mailing me, or perhaps calling for that matter.
Come to find out, she was the Jukujo I had met at the onsen two weeks ago. Not strange….I always meet Jukujo when I’m out. I love Jukujo. “What a pleasant relief “ I thought to myself. I thought she’d never contact me, but she did and now all of those memories I had at Oigami came flooding back into my memory.
I had a friend once tell me, “why bring sand to the beach?” I never forgot these words of wisdom, and the creed holds true, even still today:” Why bring sand to the beach….” Sometimes a travel solo for spiritual reasons. Other times is because another someone had another schedule. Such is life. Do you create new memories with old friends, or create new memories with new ones….? I have no ‘old friends’ in the literal sense, so you know where I stand.
I remember in the dining hall that night at the onsen hotel, there was a glorious spread on the table. Heaps of local and regional favorite were being served. All-you-can-drink sake/beer bar, the works! I chose one lone table against the window that commanded views of a snowy river down below and snowy cliffs above. The table where I was sitting was perfect. I had a full view of everybody coming and going. I saw couples with other couples, family and friends all sitting and having a wonderful time. It was nice people watching and analyzing the behavioral patterns of common everyday Japanese folk. The only people who weren’t enjoying themselves was the old Japanese men. All they did was eat and grumble about life’s vicissitudes, and the enormous bill they’ll have to pay come check-out time. I was also surprised to see so many who were there from Saitama, Tokyo, and even Kanagawa.
Just as I was about to finish up for the evening a small group walked in to the dining hall late. They were still dressed in snow gear. Three adult female Jukujo types. Two of them had brought their kids along and as they were walking passed me to their table they were wondering to themselves, “ is he alone?” At about that time the guy behind me decided to strike up a conversation in English, which I don’t like. This is Japan, let’s speak in Japanese is how I see it, and a woman would be preferable, but I was a good sport and spoke for a little bit in both Japanese and English.
I remember one of the Jukujo eyeing me. She had to have been in her late thirties or early forties, or so. She was very cute, tall, and lanky and most of all very leggy! Nice round butt and she walked like she had a sense of purpose – moving her waist from side to side. She must’ve walked passed my table five times while smiling at me. Finally, I got up and left thinking that she was just being friendly when in fact she was hinting at something else…I assumed. Never assume anything in Japan, just go with it.
Later that evening we ran into each other and she started speaking in Japanese so fast I could hardly understand a word she was saying, so she lunged her body into mine and started hugging me very tightly. After what seemed like an eternity she released her embrace and started speaking in slow, easy to understand Japanese. She asked if I was alone. I said “yes.” She asked me why, and I explained that I enjoy traveling on my own from time to time and that I love Japan and onsen. She embraced me again, but this time she was gripping my back with her hands and I rested my palms just above her round lower back to which she pressed further into me. The only English she knew was “ gudo guy, gudo guy.”
“There are times I feel I should never fully blog about certain encounters, this is one of them. “
The next morning I was introduced to her kids and sister. We exchanged contact information and several more embraces in the hotel lobby. With all the excitement that was going on I completely forgot her name and I completely forgot to ask her for her contact information.
After returning back home I had assumed once again that she would never contact me, but she did but under the alias of Sami! That was less than 24 hours ago from the date I posted this entry into my blog.
In my room I have a very large and neatly arranged collection of adult Jukujo DVDs, which I cherish and as I was going through them I found an athletics DVD of Miwa Asao, a rare DVD of her playing beach volleyball. But instead of copyrighting it, I went on Youtube and pulled another snippet of her doing what she does best. She looks exactly like Sami physically, even facially. No exaggeration on my part, same height, legs, and everything.
So, as it stands we have an appointment to meet up sometimes next week at a location I won’t post about here for reasons of anonymity.
I look forward to that meeting! It’s time to break out another nihonshu.
This is called a 冬季限定 （tokigentei)or, in other words, winter time reserve, 賞味期限（shoumikigen) expiry 30 day nigori Junmai from Akita prefecture. The brewery is called Shirataki.
Sake meter value is at 65%. Nihonshu-do, which is the sake's density to water is -13. Most ordinary sake would be around plus 3 to 5,which would indicate a degree of dryness whereas minus would indicate sweetness. Some sake are plus 8( very dry), or like in the case of this featured sake minus 13! SWEET. Acidity is +1.5. Alc. is 15～16度. This is good though, as this is a milky colored sake. Most all nigori(unfiltered) type sake will share this intense sweetness. This sake is also a bit gassy too.
The reason for choosing this particular sake is because it will be featured in the March 2010 Edition of Dancyu, a very popular gourmet food & sake magazine here in Japan. Another reason is because there’s only a limited supply left and this is the best time of year for nice creamy milky colored sake. Like I’ve said in previous posts, this is the pino colada of the sake world and around spring time you get some of the best, especially from Akita.
Okay, so I ordered it, received it, tasted it, and fell in love with it. It was everything I would’ve expect from Akita prefecture, plus more. It had a creamy thick soupy consistency and yet, it didn’t over power your mouth with strong pungent flavors. Delicate and full bodied, nice aroma and clean after-taste.
Almost like drinking her smooth and creaminess. Her name’s Nozomi and she was born and raised in Akita.
I love riding the Tokaido Line. “Tokaido” literally means East Sea Route in Japanese and it’s one of the oldest and most frequently used routes in Japan, which also include a vast network of rail lines , too. These photos below were taken from the train window.
Via Takasaki Station, I rode the Tokaido line up a winding stretch of track through sparsely populated pockets of small rural towns dotted along the outer fringes of nowhere. Places that hardly even exist in the minds of most people. A person was born here, lived, and died never once seeing anything other then his own little country hamlet grow empty and desolate and laying barren and wasted. These headstones are what’s left.( top pic)
Someone lives here. I’m sure it makes a comfortable home for someone who lives here. These ramshackle homes are so interesting to me. I just want to go inside one and look around. These are the types of structures you begin to see the farther you ride up into the countryside.
Ice cold and half frozen riverbeds and barren fields.
From the train conductor’s window I was able to finally see snow along the rails. It’s trips like this one that makes me never want to ride on a shinkansen; you miss out on so much scenery. Everything from a shinkansen window is a blur. I don’t mind capturing the local scenery from a local commuter line like this.
And then the snow really began to fall which is really cool if you have an appreciation for this type of weather and travel. The train ride is as much a part of the trip as the actually trip itself. I focus on the train ride.
This train continued on to Minakami Onsen.
All good things shouldn’t be enjoyed just once. They should be enjoyed as often as possible, like another shipment of king crab legs I ordered last week, 3kg! And these were not just your ordinary king crab legs, these are called in Japanese 極太 or Gokubuto which is a generic term used to describe something extra thick, especially in the legs of an object or thing.
And so I ordered, all 11,000 yen worth through my favorite online shop Rakuten.
Leggggzzzzz….
And the sake for tonight; one that came highly recommended was called “ Wataya “ of Kanenoi Brewery in Kurihara city, Miyagi Prefecture. It’s a Junmai Ginjo Nakatori(sake taken from the middle layer) Namagenshu. The rice used is called Akaiwa Omachi at 50%( An Okayama varietal).
I used a light vinegar when dipping the crab meat which went excellent with the light fruity texture of this deliciously nihonshu.
I always look for this sign when researching about the hotels I plan to stay in. The sign says “天然温泉” Tenen Onsen, and in English it means “natural hot spring.” Having this sign posted in an onsen ryoukan hotel means that their onsen is registered as a real onsen and not something out of a tap that’s treated. A mineral rich hot spring comes out of the earth as it is and at varying degrees in temperature and mineral richness. This post is best enjoyed over a tokkuri of hot sake and a nice soft track, I recommend Kenny “G’s” Esther – studio version. Not live.
Night shot of the annex bath
Day time view. Nothing compares to having a hot bath on a snowy day. The bitter chill, steamy hot mineral water, and nature all fused into one.
Below is a new installment called onsen theater. Enjoy.
Press Play.
The thing I love most about Oigami’s water is it’s softness on the skin. Very mild calcium/sodium rich onsen that soothes tired muscles and works wonders for fatigue. What many don’t realize is that constant soaking in any onsen for a prolonged period of time aides in digestion. For me, usually, after 12 hours of bathing off and on, the next day I feel as if my whole body is completely detoxicated. Soon after, I nap for about five ours, get up, eat, drink more sake, go back to sleep, wake up and then start my onsen ritual all over again. Sounds like an old person, ehh? So what…I paid to stay in an onsen hotel, why go out?
This onsen is called Gorokaku(伍楼閣) and is one of the top favorite spots in Oigami. Be forewarned, this is a mixed bath( men & women).
i was starting to get the shakes from the cold air on the top picture.
Magic hours are usually in the morning thus no people.
The smell of a steamy hot onsen is hard to describe, especially against the bitter cold air of winter. Sweet, warm, and earthy. Sometimes a pungent pine or cypress smell. Just the smell itself is healing the soul.
This is Oigami
To be continued….
In Japan there are many popular places that the Japanese flock to during the cold snowy months, namely, places like Kusatsu, Karuizawa, and Niseko in Hokkaido. Surprisingly enough though is that the Japanese have ignorantly squandered away a gold mine of a ski resort town ( Niseko ) by allowing Australian developers to move in and develop condos and property that they market very heavily in Australia as the Mecca of ski resort towns in Japan. As a result thousands of foreign nationals flood into this town annually painting the town red in revelry which has unfortunately scared away many of the locals from going to Niseko.
Of course the money generated is recycled back into the city -- back into foreign pockets in reality not the community, that is. The reason for mentioning this is because Niseko is blessed with some amazing hot springs and silky snow. Other places like Tomamu, another ski resort town attracting mainly Japanese, have no onsen sources, none, so I couldn’t include that in my list of must – see- places. It’s a real pity.
Though Karuizawa and Kusatsu boast some excellent onsen too, and also because they’re conveniently located near Tokyo, they’re are overrun with celebs and their T.V. camera crews, Tokyoites and, so on. I stay away from these areas because they’ve become too touristy, much like Niseko has for Westerners. There are still few last bastions of hope where a person can enjoy all of the great winter pastimes but without the masses. Oigami Onsen town is not popular, yet it has some of the best water in Japan and it snows heavily there. The skiing may not be world-class but you can still ski and enjoy yourself still without the long lines and without the hefty price tag.
Oigami, in Numata city is a very sparsely populated onsen town and has been an old timers favorites for centuries. Most of the hotels in this area use well water and serve it upon request. It’s my second time here. The first time I stayed here was at an excellent onsen hotel called Awashima which commands some pretty amazing views of the Tonemachi River covered in ice and snow. It’s a ghost town still. Nothing and nobody is here, just the great onsen(s) and charming little foot baths.
I wasn’t about to get into this. Just thought it was nice to be able to literally walk out of my room and see this foot bath there near the main entrance
Continuing my walk I came to a familiar spot I once discovered the first time I visited Oigami three years ago.
The much needed exercise I was getting coupled with the morning breeze was invigorating. I continued my walk and came across dozens of old wooden houses.
I saw lots of corn hanging from windows and sheds.
More corn.
And these icicles caught my eye. I love icicles, especially when they are not pointing at me. Below is a bell hanging from some sort of bamboo.
These were so pleasant on my ears when they were ringing. Snowy breeze was a bit gentle and very nippy.
And then this Oigami god was neat.
Then just behind it I found a small Shinto shrine. I love shrines. There is just something so natural and pure about them. Some may argue that modern Shinto is monotheistic whereas most main stream views see Shinto as having many gods(kami) or polytheistic. This argument stems from the Emperor of Japan as he was the living god of the Japanese race up until 1945, now he’s merely a symbol of the State. I washed my hands in this ice cold water before going up to offer up a prayer.
The mirror is the symbol of Amaterasu the god of Shinto.
"The mirror hides nothing. It shines without a selfish mind. Everything good and bad, right and wrong, is reflected without fail. The mirror is the source of honesty because it has the virtue of responding to the shape of object. It points out the fairness and impartiality of the divine will." —Jinno Shotoki
For more information on Shinto, go to www.uri.org/Shinto_Portrait.html.
And then the guardian dogs covered in snow.
Shishi lion dogs.
To be continued…
( Nervous anticipation for my snow trip up north. My train)
If you missed out on the 2009/10 Japan winter what a real pity as this was an excellent year for some of the heaviest snowfall on record. This year, the snow came unseasonably early and fell hard then stopped in some parts of Hokuriku and Tohoku. Last year the snowfall was nowhere near as heavy as it was this year though, and I made it just in time. Northern Gunma prefecture is a fail safe part of Japan that always snows every single year without fail and on time. By the time I post this entry the heaviest snowfall will have probably finished. From now on, expect light snowfall from this time until March, if any at all. The brunt of winter is over.
I did good for myself on this recent trip. I completely narrowed down the three most important things of my trip: onsen, food, and sake. This was another solo trip where I had to literally brave through cold and snow near the Oigami, Tonemachi Interchange on foot for 2km; buses don’t run here.
Trudging through the snow I saw the sign! Oigami Onsen. 500 meters to go and both my hands were becoming numb from the bitter coldness of having to tote a big camera bag and a duffle bag without any gloves on for two km through ankle deep patches of snow and ice. I even got pelted a few times across the face by chunks of snow.
I don’t even know where to begin, or how to properly start this blog entry. There is so much I want to blog about. As I type this entry I am packing up readying my return home to Yokohama.
In summary, I stayed for two nights in Oigami in Northern Gunma in a very nice onsen hotel called the Sunraku, which offered me a a large twin with a nice view, breakfast and dinner buffets; dinner had an all-you-can-drink sake/beer bar at no additional charge! I must’ve refilled on hot sake and beer about five or six times. I was literally carrying trays of beers and hot sake back to my own table which was situated by a very large window with a spectacular view of Tonemachi River and huge snow clad pines.
The room was 6800 yen; dinner/buffet included.
The buffet was great. Mounds of delicious and juicy chicken karaage(fried chicken) were on the table, along with tempura and soba. They even had sirloin tips and mini burgers covered in onions soaked in demigras(sp?). The whole spread was heaven.
From start to finish the whole trip was nice. Even the train ride up was nice. Check in went smoothly, my room was great. Of course before I get situated I always take a nice dip in an onsen before dinner.
Onsen paradise. I took dozens of pictures which I’ll post up on another post. On a final note, I never know why people only stay for one night….I always book for two nights. You really need time to unwind and really soak in the water and the atmosphere.
No, the term is not associated with the ubiquitous game we all know called Poker – straight flush. Instead, it is more of a euphemism associated with Asians who cannot break down alcohol for lack of a certain enzyme or gene that their body doesn’t produce. As a result of this inability for the body to break down alcohol the drinker’s face turns red, and then afterwards a slew of other bizarre symptoms manifest.
One of the biggest misconceptions I had upon arriving in Japan was that most Japanese would be able to drink alcohol, namely nihonshu. And that it was natural for a Japanese to love the national beverage without question. Nothing could be further from the truth. A far cry from my heydays when I used to attend the sake tasting events held at the New Otani Hotel in downtown Los Angeles. I was almost convinced then that all Japanese had a special place in their hearts for this rice brew we epicures call saké.
Aside from this gene condition called Asian Flush, which by the way effects more than 50% of all Asians, Japanese in general are not all that interested in the beverage itself. Most colleagues and associates I’ve met have very little to no interest in it and would rather drink a Western concoction mixed with something strange and unnatural.
Just last week I was invited out for some drinks with a few female friends in Tsurumi and to my dismay none of them touched nihonshu, not even the men. I had to question my reasoning for even being there and wasting money with a group of gourmet philistines who had no appreciation for the unique and refined character of their own national drink….? Most situations like this I usually either call in early or politely decline the invite. I can binge off of cheap alcohol with narrow minds back in my own country.
One of the greatest sex appeals of saké to me is when I am with a mature Japanese lady who likes to feed me nihonshu through her mouth. She drinks from the cup and I drink from her. It always tastes better that way for me. Here is another example.
So, this Asian Flush is a real phenomenon and like I said it affects 50% of Asians according to popular research. Some researchers contribute this phenomenon to low incidences of alcoholism in Asia, which to me sounds a bit pseudo. Asians have been drinking alcohol in different forms for thousands of years, even longer than the Europeans in some instances.
I didn’t start drinking alcohol until I was in high school. The first time I downed a whole bottle of Coors I threw up nonstop for what seemed like hours. I remember this happening to my brother too. He too was a late bloomer and didn’t start drinking until he was in his thirties, even now he still struggles with it. After that experience I fell in love with the taste. I acquired a taste for something that was strange and I fell in love with it as time went on. Could I have easily said back in the beginning that I too had a condition similar to Asian Flush…? Purple face, shakes, queasiness. That is obviously not the case now! You could run a sake I.V. in me with no problem.
I think a lot of Japanese lack experience with alcohol in general. They drink something once; turn red, feel sick, and then claim afterwards that they have Asian Flush when it could just be a temporary adjustment phase the body is going through. I’m sure that for some people who do try to drink more often would know for sure whether or not they really have the Flush.
I’m not all that convinced yet. I think it’s an excuse to avoid trying something new.
Station lunch is the best when travelling. I make it part of my routine to eat one of these lunch boxes wherever I go in Japan.
This lunch box came highly recommended and it was the last one on the shelf.
This thing was packed full of familiar favorites. The vegetables in the top left are one of my top favs. There’s a yuba right on top of the carrot and then some bamboo next to that. I love munching on those and then washing it all down with some delicious cold green tea.
It was Sunday late in the afternoon when I finally pulled up hard out of bed. I had a couple of options for the evening. I could either call up a female friend or do another solo journey to somewhere a bit far away…explore a little…you know…
And then I remembered that the New Otani Hotel was hosting a winter crab buffet until Feb. 28th. So, I made a call to book a table by the window and to confirm that they had plenty of crabs left. They did and so I quickly got changed, made some last minute preparations and headed out completely forgetting to ask anyone to go with me, actually, I didn’t forget I just thought it was unnecessary to ask anyone. It’s crab! Why converse over it? Just eat.
After navigating my way through Tokyo’s vast subway network , with the help of my handy iphone, I made it to the hotel. The place was beautiful as you would expect from a four star hotel that was once visited by the Royal Family. The restaurant was located on the 40th floor at a place called TOP of the Tower, a world class restaurant.
The restaurant was everything you’d expect from a four star restaurant with nice views of Tokyo Tower and skyline. The fare for that evening was all-you-can-eat crab and whatever else they were serving. All was very delicious.
If you ever come this way request a table on the left, not the right.
As a service, instead of you going up all the time to get your own food the cute waitresses will deliver heaps of tempura to your table – or maybe it was just me only…… Don’t hold me to that.
Crabs, crabs, crabs…
Delicious marinated chicken and New Otani’s legendary roast beef were excellent. The server was also very well mannered and eager to serve, I like this attitude.
On a sour note though, 40 minutes before closing three Latin American women and one white guy walk in demanding dinner. The poor maître d had to struggle to explain himself in English that the restaurant was closing in 30 minutes. Typically, in Japan restaurants stop accepting guest 30 minutes before closing. Unfortunately these plans were delayed by some of the rudest people I have seen in years. Imagine four big gaijin my size walking into a buffet 30 minutes before closing.
Moments like these make me never want to work in the food service industry. Much respect to the men and women who tolerate such animals who think they deserve some kind of special consideration because they are foreigners. Especially when you take into consideration that Japanese don’t accept or work on a tipping system.
On a final note, the buffet charge was expensive, but worth it. Good food and good service and atmosphere. Getting here is not difficult at all, just take the Ginza line to Akasakamitsuke station D exit turn left then work your way up the hill and the hotel will be on the left.
Arriving early or making reservations is not required but highly appreciated.
It seems that every media outlet I come across there’s Haiti. The media can’t seem to get enough of Haiti: Haiti the impoverished country of the poor little hungry negro who can never seem to get enough to eat. Haiti, with its failed government and defunct laws that can neither protect nor serve the people.
I’m amazed at the public out pouring Haiti is receiving, though. I mean…I don’t know why….so many Americans feel compelled to donate millions of dollars to a country where the people never see a penny of it?? The Clinton Bush foundation has donated millions of dollars to the country called Haiti, but to its people? The people are still poor and needy and have been since the country’s independents.
But it’s no surprise to me that since 1994 the people of Haiti still live in abject poverty, which was largely brought on by the Clinton/Powell era Caribbean style colonialist tactics, which had played a major role in the downward spiraling effect you are witnessing today, with respect to the economy that is. Democracy and Capitalism has not worked together at all in Haiti.
The bone of contention I am having is with the enormous amount of media attention Haiti is receiving: Natural disaster comes, devastation ensues, thousands die, food and medicine is flown in, the sick are cared for, thousands of babies are left without parents, thousands more babies are donated to white people all across America. The same was done during Katrina where hundreds perhaps thousands of families and kids where hauled like chattel all across America. Had there been better engineering and city planning implemented there would’ve been no Katrina aftermath.
Nothing is ever mentioned about infrastructure, nothing is ever mentioned about restoring the rule of law first, and then law & order( police) second. Nothing is ever mentioned about prevention. What would Haiti look like if the American government invested a billion dollars into Haiti’s infrastructure…? Or education system…? What would Haiti look like if the French government had repaid its debts to the Haitians for centuries of free slave labor and the enormous theft of mineral wealth….?
(“ If you are a small country and you lack the military means to protect yourself then you bend over.”)
It’s disgusting when I see a grown white man on T.V. weeping like a sissy because his heart is bleeding for poor negro babies in Haiti when there are 1.5 million homeless white kids in America that his ass can adopt for free. I just don’t get it.
(“Haitian babies deserve a home on a hill with white parents in the suburbs of Hickville U.S.A…? Haitians deserve Haiti and need rich white nations to donate money towards the building of their country, that’s it”).
White Americans are so morally in the wrong when they take a child out of its own country, raise it, teach it English, make it forget about its roots and language, and then what…? Do these children return back to Haiti? No! They are no longer Haitians. All because of some overly sympathetic white geek who couldn’t figure out his priorities. You take care of home first.
It’s pronounced fu-yu-no-tsuki (winter’s moon)an arabashiri,which denotes the season’s first sake called run roughly sake, in other words moromi (fermented mash) naturally pressed from a traditional wooden press called a fune. What comes out after what’s either pressed manually or naturally from its own weight is what I am drinking now(rough run). Of course, I have only given you a condensed version of this whole process. Just remember, this sake was made by hand not machine. You do not drink sake like this hot but COLD.
This a Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Shiboritate (unfiltered first pressed draft type) and is produced by Kamikokoro( God Heart) Brewery in Okayama Prefecture, located in the westernmost region of Honshu called Chugoku or San'in-San'yō’s Asakuchi District. Sake from this part of Japan are typically fuller bodied than their Northern Japan counterparts, so if you are looking for something with more dynamic ranges in flavors then look West.
When savoring the initial taste of this sake in your mouth(口に含む/kuchi ni fukumu) the first things that comes to mind is dry, sharp, and fruity, like winter itself, along with the sweet smells of the seasons. All of these elements burst forth on your palate all at the same time. This is called “umami.” I think this could be attributed to the type of yeast that was used called “ hakuto.” The seimabuai(sake meter value) is at 58%, Alc 1.6, and the nihonshudo is minus 4. So, sweet,dry, and fruity. Another key feature is that it’s also an usunigori type!
When talking about sake I can’t help but include other aspects about the region and its people, history, and cuisines as I feel they embody the essence of shudō– the way of loving the seasons and sake according to Hiroyuki Kouda. I can’t resist. These other elements must be told. N.B., shudō should not be confused with the homosexual practices of the samurai. They are two different practices.
When I think of this part of Japan, images of the famous Korakuen Garden come to mind with its lush green, its peach groves and long winding meandering channels called kyokusui. I also can’t help but envision the snow clad pine trees and cedar groves. The soothing and mysterious clucking sound of the Shishi Odoshi as water fills and empties it.
The Japanese Bush Wabler’s cherp in the early morning as dew drops fall near my window. I can drink sake to this I say to myself. Morning sake is the best. I have sat in WARM winter onsen(s) in West Japan as snow fell gently and gracefully across my shoulders while drinking COLD sake. I can almost smell the scent of pine from the sake masu(woooden cup).
Built by Ikeda Tsunamasa, lord of Okayama this garden/park has become known as one of the top three great Daimyo gardens in Japan and is a shining jewel in the middle of a city famed for its samurai and enormous wealth. One notable great was a samurai sword legend named Miyamoto Musashi, author of the book “Five Rings” which details his martial arts. Musashi is well-known in Japan as arguably the greatest swordsman that ever lived. Don’t forget that folks.
According to the way of shudō, which again means fostering a love of the seasons, sake lends a type of expression to the natural balance and harmony of life for me. I see it as a way to better understand Japan and its people. I have personally been to Okayama. I have met the people there. I have met the Jukujo there. I have imbibed there. I have strolled threw the daimyo gardens there. I have acknowledged the gods there. This is Japan.
On a final note, please don’t confuse the term “arabashiri” as there are other sake with this label as well. Just remember, this one is from Okayama Prefecture. Arabashiri is extremely popular now in Japan, especially by most Japanese sake lovers.
I’d like to give a special shout out to Melinda Joe for poking me with a lightening rod over at her wonderful blog called Tokyo Through the Drinking Glass. Not enough people know that she’s the definitive sake and wine mavens of our time, she’s also an expert on cuisine. She’s a true epicure!
Do you agree that gaining knowledge takes away the appreciation of beauty? Samuel Langhorne Clemens did, or better known by the pen name Mark Twain.
I once had a friend who commented on an onsen I had took him to. He walked around in it a bit and said, in an unctuous tone, to me “ it’s just water.” And with those words my whole mood was ruined. I have always thought that the onsen experience is more than just being in “water.” For me it still is more than just sitting in water.
In Mark Twain’s essay called Two Views of the Mississippi he writes about the grace and the beauty of this majestic river called the Mississippi River! He begins by writing about the wonderful sunsets which he witnessed when steamboating was still new to him. Twain also recalled the river turning to blood; in the middle distance the red hue brightened into gold, through which a solitary log came floating black and conspicuous; in one place a long, slanting mark lay sparkling upon the water. He goes on to write that the day had came when he no longer spoke so poetically about the Mississippi River.
You see, he was a river boat captain and after years of traveling back and forth down the Mississippi River, the romance and beauty was finally gone from it. After learning about every single detail of the river, every single trifling aspect of the river, from all the radiant sunsets, the densely wooded shores, and ruffled trails, even the clean-stemmed dead tree waving a single leaf bough that glowed like a flame in the unobstructed splendor that was flowing in the sun. With all of this he became tired of this river.
I remember on the plane on the way to Japan a Japanese guy mentioned to me that I would eventually grow tired of Japan. I didn’t forget those words. I am nowhere near being tired of Japan. In fact it is only the beginning for me here. I believe that once we loose this ability to appreciate what we can see and visualize and even conceptualize as beautiful then a part of us dies. What’s next then….What can be appreciated next?
A part of me that will never change is my love for Western food, especially bread. I guess we can thank the Portuguese for introducing bread to Japan 460 years ago by accident. I mean, if the Portuguese weren’t trading slaves at that time, then maybe they were heavily involved in the spread of culinary knowledge…? That’s the only historical association I have of them.
Nevertheless, since we’re on the subject of bread I would like to introduce my favorite brand. Funwari Shoku Pan(ふんわり食パン), a product of Yamazaki Baking Co., LTD. The term “funwari” means fluffy or soft in English, and of all the breads I have enjoyed over the years this one is my favorite.
Out of the bag it’s very soft and a bit moist. Smells fresh and goes perfectly with eggs and jumbo sausages.
The sausages to the right are spicy and larger than most that are sold in supermarkets across Japan. These sausages, however, are American size and are sold at Fuji Supermarket. I have been to just about every supermarket chain in this country and have never found sausages this size. Another nice thing is that even after you toast them they never break if you wrap one around a sausage.
A traditional Western style breakfast for me goes something like this: Three eggs fried very hard sunny side up. Spicy sausages – 3. Two slices of toast with a generous serving of butter on both. Lastly, two or three tall glasses of ice cold orange juice, or 1000ml. And then the perfect finisher would be a hot cup of coffee.
Most of us who are familiar with Asian and Japanese cuisines are also familiar with soy sauce. In North America soy sauce that’s sold in most major supermarket chains is called Kikkoman, and is practically a household name for many ethnic dishes from Asia.
Living in Japan has given me many opportunities to explore other types of soy sauce. I can hardly remember the last time I ate Kikkoman with anything. In Japan there are hundreds of different soy sauces from all over the Island so it’s fun to dabble a bit in the kitchen and with different types of soy sauces.
Since I like fried dishes like tempura or chicken, the type of soy sauce used would have to have a lighter taste. Some North Americans like to drown their food with it, I don’t. After several months of searching and taste testing I found the ideal shoyu(soy sauce). It’s called Higashimaru Tatsuno no Toki which hails from Hyogo Prefecture in Tatsuno City. So many great shoyu come out of West Japan and this one was no exception. The taste, smell, and textures were just right for me.
In the world of shoyu there are a few different types to look out for. Usukuchi type shoyu( light colored ) then there’s the Koikuchi type, which is the standard table variety – dark. The stuff I like is “awaguchi” type, or a cross between both types. Not too dark, not too light, lighter tasting than the table variety, too.
Another nice thing is the clean and light tasting aftertaste. This shoyu could easily be enjoyed with sashimi dishes, especially bluefin tuna, the most famed fish in Japan!
Contact Information
100-3 Tominaga, Tatsuno-cho, Tatsuno City, Hyogo, 679-4167, Japan
tel: +81-79-163-4567
fax: +81-79-163-4585
e-mail: osaka-eigyo@higashimaru.co.jp
website: www.higashimaru.co.jp
contact: Minoru Aoki
