HOKKAIDO - Train services remain suspended on part of the JR Soya Line in Hokkaido on November 2 after a limited express train collided with a brown bear and derailed in Nakagawa on the night of October 31, with replacement bus services beginning Monday morning between Asahikawa and Wakkanai.
The accident has disrupted rail services connecting northern Hokkaido with Asahikawa, forcing passengers to rely on alternative transportation while recovery operations continue.
JR Hokkaido said the derailed train has yet to be moved from the accident site, preventing the affected section of track from reopening.
Replacement buses began operating on the morning of November 2 between Asahikawa and Wakkanai, where limited express train services have been canceled.
The railway operator said there is currently no estimate for when normal train operations will resume.
For tourists, the disruption affects a railway journey that offers an unusually intimate view of Hokkaido's remote northern landscapes, taking passengers through farming communities, extensive forests, winding river valleys and coastal plains where wildlife remains an important part of the surrounding environment.
The Soya Main Line stretches approximately 260 kilometers from Asahikawa to Wakkanai, making it Japan's longest railway line served by conventional trains without electrification. The limited express journey normally takes around three hours and 40 minutes, passing through some of the least densely populated areas of the country.
Unlike the high-speed railways connecting Japan's major cities, the Soya Line offers a slower experience of the country's northern wilderness. The journey begins in Asahikawa, Hokkaido's second-largest city, before heading north through the agricultural landscapes of the Kamikawa region. Beyond the city, buildings gradually give way to fields, scattered farmhouses, wooded hills and small settlements separated by long stretches of open countryside.
The first part of the route takes passengers through the Shiokari Pass area toward Wassamu and Shibetsu, where the scenery changes with the seasons. During summer, green fields and forested slopes dominate the landscape, while autumn brings shades of yellow, orange and red as the deciduous trees change color. By November, the region is preparing for winter, with snow increasingly likely in the higher ground and temperatures frequently falling below freezing overnight.
Further north, the train reaches Nayoro, a regional center known for its agricultural production, particularly glutinous rice, and its severe winter climate. The surrounding Nayoro Basin experiences some of Hokkaido's coldest weather, with deep snow accumulation and temperatures that can fall well below minus 20 degrees Celsius during the winter months.
Beyond Nayoro, the railway enters increasingly remote territory, passing through Bifuka and continuing toward Otoineppu, a small village surrounded by mountains and forests. Otoineppu is particularly well known among railway enthusiasts for its isolation and its history as an important junction on Hokkaido's northern railway network.
The village was once a connection point for the Tenpoku Line, which provided an alternative route to Wakkanai through communities along the eastern side of northern Hokkaido before closing in 1989. Today, Otoineppu remains an important station on the surviving Soya Main Line, although passenger numbers are modest and train services are infrequent.
For travelers interested in rural Japan, this section offers glimpses of a landscape that has changed relatively little compared with the country's major urban areas. Forests of birch and other northern trees cover the hillsides, while small roads, bridges and occasional houses appear beside the railway.
North of Otoineppu, the line enters one of its most picturesque stretches as it follows the Teshio River, one of Hokkaido's longest rivers. The railway winds through the valley, with the river appearing alongside the tracks and mountains rising beyond the water.
The Teshio River is an important feature of northern Hokkaido's geography, flowing through forests and agricultural districts before reaching the Sea of Japan. In places, the river bends sharply through the landscape, creating broad gravel banks and quiet stretches of water surrounded by dense woodland.
This area is also home to Hokkaido's native brown bears, known locally as higuma. The animals inhabit extensive forested regions across the island, including the mountains and river valleys surrounding the Soya Line.
Brown bears are considerably larger than the Asian black bears found in much of Honshu, Japan's main island. Adult males can weigh more than 200 kilograms, with particularly large individuals reaching substantially greater weights. Their size and strength make encounters potentially dangerous, especially when a bear is surprised at close range or protecting its cubs.
For passengers hoping to see wildlife, the railway passes through genuine bear habitat, although sightings from moving trains are uncommon and cannot be expected. Bears generally avoid human activity, and the combination of train noise, movement and dense vegetation makes them difficult to observe.
Passengers are more likely to notice signs of Hokkaido's other wildlife, including Ezo deer, which inhabit forest edges, grasslands and agricultural areas throughout the region. Deer sometimes appear close to railway tracks, particularly around dawn and dusk, and collisions between trains and deer are a recurring operational problem on Hokkaido's rural railways.
Other animals found in northern Hokkaido include red foxes, mountain hares and a wide variety of birds. Large birds of prey, including white-tailed eagles and Steller's sea eagles, can also be seen in parts of northern Hokkaido, particularly during the colder months.
The possibility of encountering wildlife is one of the attractions of traveling through the region, but it also presents challenges for transportation operators. Railway tracks often pass directly through animal habitats, and wild animals may cross the tracks while moving between feeding areas, rivers and forest cover.
The October 30 collision illustrates the difficulty of avoiding large animals on remote railway sections. Even when a driver spots an animal ahead, the distance required to bring a train to a complete stop can make a collision unavoidable.
As the train continues north from the Teshio River valley, it passes Teshio-Nakagawa, close to the site of the derailment. Nakagawa is a small town surrounded by forests and agricultural land, with a population of fewer than 1,500 people. Its remote location makes the railway an important connection with the rest of Hokkaido.
This section is particularly attractive in autumn, when deciduous forests along the river turn golden and the landscape begins its transition toward the long northern winter. In spring, melting snow fills rivers and streams, while summer brings lush vegetation and extended daylight hours.
Continuing north, the railway eventually approaches Horonobe and the Sarobetsu Plain, where the scenery changes dramatically. The enclosed river valleys and wooded hills gradually open into broad grasslands, wetlands and low-lying agricultural country.
The Sarobetsu wetlands form part of Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park, one of Japan's northernmost protected natural areas. The wetlands are internationally recognized under the Ramsar Convention and provide important habitat for migratory birds.
During spring and autumn, visitors to the wider Sarobetsu region may encounter migratory geese, swans and other waterbirds using the wetlands as resting and feeding grounds. In summer, the landscape is known for its wildflowers, including colorful wetland plants that bloom across the open plains.
The railway passes through the broader Sarobetsu landscape, although travelers who wish to explore the protected wetlands more closely need to leave the train and arrange onward transportation to visitor facilities and walking trails.
One of the area's major attractions is the Sarobetsu Wetland Center near Toyotomi, where visitors can follow wooden boardwalks through the marshland and learn about the region's wildlife and peatland ecosystem. The center offers views across the open landscape, which is especially striking during the summer flowering season.
Toyotomi is also known for Toyotomi Onsen, an unusual hot spring resort whose mineral-rich waters contain naturally occurring oil components. The hot springs have attracted visitors for their distinctive bathing experience and are located a short distance from the railway station, requiring additional transportation.
For many passengers, however, the greatest scenic highlight comes during the final approach to Wakkanai, when the landscape opens toward the Sea of Japan and the distinctive silhouette of Mount Rishiri appears across the water on clear days.
Mount Rishiri, often called Rishiri Fuji because of its resemblance to Mount Fuji, rises 1,721 meters above sea level on Rishiri Island. Its volcanic cone dominates the surrounding seascape and is among the most recognizable natural landmarks in northern Japan.
The mountain can appear almost to float above the horizon when viewed from the mainland, particularly during clear weather. In winter and early spring, snow covers much of the peak, creating a dramatic contrast with the sea and the surrounding coastline.
The final stretch of the journey takes passengers through Minami-Wakkanai before reaching Wakkanai Station, Japan's northernmost railway station and the terminus of the Soya Main Line.
Wakkanai is a small port city facing the waters between Hokkaido and Russia's Sakhalin Island. It serves as a gateway to Cape Soya, the northernmost point of Japan's main islands, as well as the offshore islands of Rishiri and Rebun.
Cape Soya, approximately 30 kilometers northeast of central Wakkanai, is one of the region's best-known tourist destinations. Visitors travel to the cape to see its triangular monument marking Japan's northernmost point accessible to the general public on the main islands. On exceptionally clear days, the coast of Sakhalin can be seen across the Soya Strait.
Another attraction is Cape Noshappu, located west of central Wakkanai, which is known for its coastal scenery and sunset views toward Rishiri Island.
Wakkanai also provides ferry connections to Rishiri and Rebun, which attract hikers, nature lovers and visitors seeking to experience remote island communities. Rishiri is known for its volcanic mountain and coastal landscapes, while Rebun is famous for its alpine flowers, many of which grow at unusually low elevations because of the island's cool northern climate.
For tourists planning a trip along the Soya Line, the experience varies considerably depending on the season. Summer offers long daylight hours, green forests and relatively mild temperatures, making it popular for sightseeing, hiking and exploring northern Hokkaido's national parks.
Autumn is particularly attractive for its changing foliage, although temperatures fall rapidly as October progresses. By early November, travelers should prepare for cold winds, frost and possible snowfall, especially in inland areas and during the early morning and evening.
Winter transforms the railway journey into a very different experience. Heavy snow covers fields and forests, frozen rivers become part of the scenery, and strong winds can create drifting snow across exposed sections of track. The sight of a limited express train crossing these vast white landscapes has made the Soya Line popular with railway photographers.
However, winter weather can also disrupt services, making it advisable for visitors to allow additional time for connections and avoid overly tight travel schedules.
Travelers using the line should also be aware that limited express trains operate relatively infrequently compared with services around Sapporo and other major cities. The Soya and Sarobetsu services have reserved seating, and passengers planning to stop at smaller communities may need to rely on local trains with considerably longer intervals between departures.
The replacement buses introduced after the bear collision are intended to maintain essential transportation between Asahikawa and Wakkanai rather than provide sightseeing tours. Passengers should therefore not expect scheduled stops at tourist attractions or opportunities to explore the towns and natural areas along the way.
The road journey may also take longer than the normal limited express service, making advance planning particularly important for passengers with hotel reservations, ferry connections or onward travel arrangements.
One tourist from Kanagawa Prefecture said the disruption had forced a change of plans, including abandoning a planned visit to Cape Soya and heading to a hotel earlier than expected.
The incident has also drawn attention to the wider issue of bear encounters in Hokkaido. Brown bears are active across much of the island from spring through autumn, spending considerable time searching for food before entering winter dens. Their behavior and the timing of hibernation vary depending on weather, food availability and individual animals.
During autumn, bears feed intensively to build the fat reserves needed to survive winter. They may travel considerable distances in search of nuts, berries and other food sources, bringing them into contact with roads, railways and occasionally settlements.
Although the Soya Line passes through bear habitat, travelers should not regard the route as a reliable place for bear watching. The animals are elusive, and intentionally approaching or searching for them in remote forest areas can be dangerous.
Visitors exploring hiking trails, forest roads and rural attractions away from railway stations are advised to check local bear sighting information, travel in groups where possible and make their presence known in areas with poor visibility. Food and garbage should be kept secure, and anyone encountering a bear should avoid approaching it or attempting to take close-up photographs.
For tourists traveling aboard the train itself, the main attraction remains the scenery rather than direct wildlife encounters. The combination of rivers, forests, isolated settlements, wetlands and distant mountains offers a view of Japan far removed from the crowded urban landscapes more familiar to international visitors.
The Soya Line also has a historical importance extending beyond tourism. Construction began in the late 19th century as railway development expanded into northern Hokkaido, and the route eventually became an important transportation corridor serving agricultural communities and connecting the island's far north with the rest of Japan.
Before World War II, Wakkanai was an important departure point for transportation links to southern Sakhalin, then under Japanese administration. The railway formed part of a wider network connecting communities across Hokkaido's northern frontier.
Today, the line faces the same demographic and economic pressures affecting many rural railways in Japan. Population decline, increasing car ownership and the high cost of maintaining infrastructure through harsh winters have placed financial pressure on services.
Nevertheless, the railway remains an important connection for residents, while also offering visitors a distinctive journey through a region that retains much of its natural character.
The derailment in Nakagawa demonstrates the challenges of operating trains through such environments, where the proximity of wildlife, severe weather and remote terrain can complicate both routine services and emergency recovery operations.
