KOBE - Kobe is a city blessed by both the sea and the mountains. One of its most defining features is Mount Ichizan, part of the Rokko mountain range. Long known as the birthplace of modern mountaineering in Japan, this area is home to a variety of distinctive peaks. Nestled within one of them, in Kobe’s Chuo Ward, lies Juzenji Temple, a Zen temple with a history spanning over 950 years.
At 5:30 in the morning, people begin climbing the stone steps to the temple. Many stop to sign their names in a logbook that tracks the number of climbs they’ve completed. Some climbers proudly show their tallies—thousands of ascents logged over years of daily effort. One woman notes that she has surpassed 3,000 climbs; another says she’s passed 10,000. One of the top climbers has apparently done it more than 20,000 times—equivalent to climbing every single day for over 50 years.
This culture of “everyday climbing” has a long history. It is said to have started in the Meiji era when foreigners living in Kobe began ascending the mountains each morning before enjoying a refined breakfast. Locals soon embraced the habit, and it evolved into a cherished community tradition.
Archival footage from 1963 shows cheerful climbers ascending Rokko’s slopes, with many performing radio calisthenics at the summit before returning home. While the number of participants has declined since its peak, the tradition remains vibrant. For many, it is not only a health routine but also a key social connection.
At the summit, climbers gather at a mountain teahouse near Juzenji Temple. One such shop is run by Toyonaga Yuko, known affectionately as "Mame-chan." She took over the tea house five years ago and serves breakfast sets like rice balls and miso soup or toast and coffee. The shop has become a central hub, welcoming everyone from elderly climbers to curious children.
Yuko’s mother-in-law, who previously ran the shop, returned to the tea house after recovering from a life-threatening illness. Together, the two women revived the store, creating a space that serves not just food but community support. The mother-in-law jokes about her daughter-in-law being a "devilish wife," but beams with pride when talking about her.
Among the regular climbers are individuals with inspiring stories. One man has been climbing daily for five years and is now 82. Another woman, 94, started climbing with her husband decades ago and continues even after his passing. Then there’s Honda, 86 years old, who began climbing in her late twenties to lose weight. Now with over 24,000 climbs under her belt, she says, “If I don’t climb, I feel like I’ve forgotten something.”
Children also frequent the path. The short climb—just 108.4 meters—makes it accessible even for elementary schoolers, who come after school to play with Mame-chan. The tea house is filled with laughter as generations mingle freely.
Though some mountain tea houses have shut down due to aging proprietors, about a dozen still remain in the Rokko range. Each one offers its own specialties and a place to rest for climbers. Mame-chan hopes to preserve this culture, which naturally fosters human connection through shared routine and nature.
In the afternoon, familiar faces return once more. A man known as “Ken-chan,” 82, comes daily at 6 p.m. to keep up his health. Living alone, he says the tea house gives him someone to talk to—and when he’s absent, others worry.
Climbers say the rhythm of ascending the mountain every day sets the tone for their lives. Whether it’s for health, community, or simply the sense of peace it brings, the tradition endures. As the sun rises over Kobe, another day begins—one more step in a climb that has lasted generations.
Source: ABCTVnews
