Bringing traditional sweets back to the Kyoto masses

Kanako Suzuka, daughter of the owner of the famous Shogoin Yatsuhashi Sohonten Co., has transformed the traditional treats into delicate and colorful miniatures with her new “nikiniki” brand.

The 35-year-old said that while yatsuhashi remains popular among tourists, it is sad to see how it has become more of a souvenir than a common snack for locals.

“The nikiniki brand is an introduction to the original yatsuhashi,” Suzuka said. “I am hoping that nikiniki will be the catalyst to bring back the Kyoto natives, especially the younger generation and have them enjoy yatsuhashi more.”

Yatsuhashi has been one of Kyoto’s most famous sweets since 1689 and honor Yatsuhashi Kengyo, a famous harp player, who passed away in 1685.

The sweet usually comes in two basic styles: the harp-shaped thin brown cookies baked to perfection, or white floppy steamed layers with sweetened bean paste inside. Japanese nikki, or cinnamon, provides yatsuhashi with its unique taste.

Suzuka has completely recreated the yatsuhashi image to offer a whole new lineup that is almost too cute to eat.

The nikiniki brand uses colorful layers of steamed yatsuhashi that are cut into various shapes or rolled up into tiny pieces that are intricately folded and put together.

In March, there are dolls in kimono to celebrate Hinamatsuri, or girls’ day, while Christmas sees Santa Claus and his reindeer in miniature, Characters from Japan’s fairy tales and fancy gems are made throughout the year.

At the store in Kyoto, customers are also introduced to a selection of jams, including strawberry, apple and rum-soaked raisin, and can wrap their choice in yatsuhashi layers that form a blossom.

While Kyoto’s elder generations still visit the Shogoin store that has been in operation at the same site since the Edo Period (1603-1868), Suzuka has met young people who have never even tasted yatsuhashi.