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Behind the Scenes with Japan’s Master Wagashi Artisan: Crafting Perfection

Mar 19, 2025 (Japanese Kitchen Tour) - At Miyoshiya Roisen, a traditional Japanese confectionery shop in Seto City, Aichi Prefecture, third-generation owner Shota Oizumi demonstrates the intricate craft of wagashi making.

One of the sweets he creates is "Sakura," a delicate confection featuring pink nerikiri wrapped in white nerikiri using the "wrapping blur" technique. The color gradation mimics the soft hues of cherry blossoms. To shape the petals, he skillfully uses a diamond stick and his fingers, applying careful pressure to achieve a natural appearance.

Born into a family of confectioners, Oizumi trained at the prestigious Taneya sweets shop and later became the youngest recipient of the "Excellent Japanese Confectionery Worker" award from the National Japanese Confectionery Association. He also holds a first-class technician qualification, positioning him as a promising leader in the industry. As he refines the shape of the Sakura sweet, he explains that slight irregularities in petal size make the design more natural, emphasizing the importance of asymmetry in wagashi craftsmanship.

Next, Oizumi demonstrates the creation of a "Rose" sweet using the "Sajikiri" technique, which involves precisely cutting the bean paste with a spoon to form delicate petals. The process requires perfect control over timing and force. He recalls his initial struggles with the technique, comparing it to learning how to ride a bicycle. Over time, through dedicated practice, he mastered the subtle movements needed to shape the petals correctly. Unlike most confectioners who use two spoons, he employs three to enhance expression and detail in his designs.

Attention to detail extends beyond technique to the materials and tools used in wagashi making. Oizumi often visits souvenir and craft stores, searching for unconventional items that can aid in shaping and decorating sweets. His commitment to his craft is also reflected in his personal care routine, as he diligently maintains clean and well-moisturized hands, knowing that his work requires direct contact with the delicate confections.

The final demonstration features the "Sunflower" sweet, showcasing the "Houan" technique, where bean paste is wrapped flawlessly to avoid any visible fingerprints or hand marks. This fundamental skill, often assigned to apprentices, requires patience and precision. Oizumi recalls being frequently scolded in his early years for leaving traces on the sweets, but through repetition and discipline, he mastered the technique. Now, he ensures that each piece is wrapped with the utmost care, using his palms for adjustments before adding finishing touches with a diamond stick.

Through years of dedication, Oizumi has refined his skills in the intricate art of wagashi making, combining tradition with personal creativity. His meticulous craftsmanship and passion for innovation continue to push the boundaries of Japanese confectionery, preserving its legacy while inspiring future generations.

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