HYOGO, Jun 21 (News On Japan) - Supermarket shelves are now lined with tomatoes at the peak of their season, from large round varieties to small ones that resemble jewels. In recent years, the variety of tomatoes has greatly expanded, with some stores offering around 30 types, proving highly popular with customers.
In fact, tomatoes now top the charts among Japan's vegetable production by value. Behind this so-called "tomato warring states era," who are the people growing these sought-after tomatoes, and what drives them? This report takes a closer look at farmers who are passionately pursuing the art of tomato cultivation.
Among the many tomatoes on display, the sweet varieties are particularly in demand. One standout is the "Amahoppe" tomato sold at Tatehiroba, praised for its exceptional sweetness. A single pack sells for around 400 yen, a relatively high price, yet it remains very popular. While ordinary tomatoes typically have a sugar content of about 6 degrees Brix, the Amahoppe exceeds 8.5 degrees and can even reach 13 degrees during peak season, comparable to melons. To find out who grows these tomatoes and how, we visited the production site.
The journey led to the mountainous Harima district of Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture, a region known for agriculture. Here, the company Kakushin Farm cultivates Amahoppe tomatoes. Inside their enormous greenhouses—each roughly the size of four 25-meter swimming pools—around 6,000 tomato plants grow. The farm's three greenhouses yield an average of 180 kilograms of tomatoes per day.
The farm's representative is Hiroyuki Hirao. The name "Kakushin Farm" comes from blending their long history of woodworking with agriculture. "We’ve been in the timber home business for nearly 120 years, focusing on natural materials that are gentle on the body. I thought it was just as important to pursue healthiness in food as in housing," Hirao explained. About a decade ago, he started with hydroponic cultivation to grow lettuce inside protected structures, avoiding the risks posed by weather and typhoons. However, expanding lettuce production proved difficult, leading him to consider tomatoes. "My wife happens to love tomatoes. She half-joked that if we're going to farm, we should grow sweet tomatoes. But when I seriously calculated the yield per square meter and business potential, tomatoes made sense."
Using his experience in structural design, Hirao built strong, durable greenhouses. The Amahoppe tomato, a variety derived from the Frutica mini-tomato, is now sold under their own brand. The key to its sweetness lies in the unique cultivation method: a mere one-centimeter layer of soil atop a special film regulates water absorption, stressing the plant just enough to enhance its sweetness. Environmental controls for temperature, humidity, and ventilation are managed by AI systems that automatically adjust the greenhouse conditions. Yet manual work remains essential as workers harvest the fruit that grows along vines extending up to 6-7 meters.
The workers take great pride in their product. One staff member said, "My grandchildren only eat these tomatoes. The taste is completely different." The farm also shares recipes at its staff cafeteria, where one popular dish is tomato and mackerel pasta. The preparation involves sautéing garlic and chili in olive oil, adding cabbage, then halved Amahoppe tomatoes, and finally canned mackerel with its juice before tossing it with cooked pasta. "The tomato’s sweetness really stands out, and it pairs perfectly with the mackerel," one employee remarked.
This marks the fifth year since they started growing tomatoes, and Hirao says, "I’ve come to feel that the care and attention we give each tomato somehow shows in the fruit itself. The more seriously we work, the better the results."
Meanwhile, in Fukuchiyama, northern Kyoto Prefecture, another remarkable tomato producer is gaining attention. Here, Kanako Kobayashi and her husband Shinsuke run a farm that produces what is widely regarded as "the ultimate tomato juice." Priced at 1,080 yen for 180 ml and with a 720 ml bottle selling for 3,780 yen, their premium version is packed in wooden gift boxes and costs 10,800 yen. Despite the high prices, it has attracted a loyal customer base, particularly at department stores.
The key to their juice lies in both the tomatoes and the production process. They grow the Momotaro variety, which balances sweetness with pleasant acidity. "We aim to cultivate in a way that’s as environmentally friendly as possible," Kobayashi explained. By enriching the soil with marine minerals and limiting plant height to ensure optimal nutrient concentration, they focus on harvesting only the most flavorful fruit. The tomatoes are harvested fully ripe and processed into juice in collaboration with a local social welfare organization.
Another secret lies in how the juice is aged. Stored for several months in an old kura (traditional warehouse) where temperatures remain stable year-round, the juice mellows and develops a smoother, richer taste. "We discovered that aging it this way takes away the sharpness and creates an incredibly mild flavor. It’s something quite unique to us," said Kobayashi.
Behind this success story, however, lies a painful memory. In July 2018, heavy rainfall devastated western Japan, including Fukuchiyama. Just two days before the scheduled harvest, the floodwaters wiped out their crop. Friends came to help salvage what little remained, and from that small batch, they decided to make tomato juice. "Rather than seeing the disaster as a setback, we chose to turn it into something positive and move forward," Kobayashi recalled.
Originally, Kobayashi had worked in Osaka running a cram school for 25 years. Drawn to farming after starting a small vegetable garden for her pet mini pig, she was captivated by the world of soil and plant cultivation, eventually transitioning into professional farming. Fukuchiyama, her childhood playground and her mother’s hometown, became her new home a decade ago.
Today, Kobayashi not only produces highly sought-after tomato juice but also leads a local group called "Norayujenne," which gathers female farmers from Fukuchiyama, Ayabe, and surrounding areas to promote agriculture and revitalize the community. Sometimes, she even shares her passion on local radio programs. Fellow member Mori praised her leadership: "She’s a driving force who inspires everyone to follow her lead."
Kobayashi also shared one of her favorite summer recipes: tofu and tomato caprese salad. After draining tofu, she scoops it into a dish, adds bite-sized pieces of ripe tomato, sprinkles salt and shiso leaves, and finishes with black pepper and olive oil. "It’s simple and delicious," she smiled.
Another local supporter, top chef Nakagawa, who is also a fan of her tomatoes, demonstrated a chilled tomato soup recipe. He combined peeled and chopped ripe tomatoes with raw onions, bell peppers, and cucumbers, added garlic for aroma, and used a secret trick—adding a little bread to thicken the soup. After blending with tomato juice and letting it chill overnight, the result was a richly flavored, smooth soup perfect for summer.
"For me, tomatoes have become partners that taught me the importance and possibilities of human connections," Kobayashi reflected. The farmers striving for delicious tomatoes carry not only technical know-how but also deep personal stories that add richness to their harvests.
Source: KTV NEWS
