Aug 09, 2021 (Nikkei) - Japan's restaurant industry experienced a series of transformative events in 1971.
The biggest by far was the opening of the first McDonald's restaurant in Japan at the Mitsukoshi department store in Tokyo's Ginza district on July 20. The restaurant was built in 39 hours of frenzied work that began with the removal of display windows immediately after the store's closing at 6 p.m. on Sunday, July 18, and continued through Monday, Mitsukoshi's regular holiday.
"Daily sales reach 1 million yen ($2,800 at the time) and the outlet is filled with customers day in, day out," boasted Den Fujita, founder of McDonald's Japan (now Japan McDonald's Holdings), to media at the time.
Big words, but the real figure is said to be less than 300,000 yen. Yes, there were crowds in front of the restaurant, but most came simply to gawk. The throngs had no idea how to place an order, or even how to eat hamburgers, which they had never seen.
But Fujita's little lie created quite a buzz for the burger joint. The restaurant eventually became the talk of the town and was soon bustling with diners.
Ray Kroc, de facto founder of the U.S. McDonald's chain, attended the ribbon-cutting ceremony of the Ginza restaurant, but he was uneasy. The American side was opposed to opening an outlet in the upscale shopping district and repeatedly told Fujita not to.
Kroc said that choosing a downtown location was "nonsense," as McDonald's restaurants in the U.S. were in the suburbs where customers mostly arrived in cars. "You're right, Ray," said the accommodating Fujita. "We'll open our first restaurant on a suburban road near the coast of Chigasaki [in Kanagawa Prefecture]."
But Fujita was hardly keen on debuting in out-of-the-way Chigasaki. Years later, he explained why: "Foreign cultures and customs don't become popular unless they take root in the center of a country. In Japan, it's Ginza."
It was his belief and he was not to be dissuaded, even if it involved a little trickery.
Fujita got his start in sundries business in 1950 when he was a University of Tokyo student. He expanded it from jewelry to high-end imported apparel and was a pioneer of the foreign brand business in Japan. Having forged ties with Mitsukoshi as the sales agent for French fashion house Christian Dior, Fujita realized that the Ginza store's power to influence came from its standing as the center of Japanese fashion. He logically assumed that the best place to debut a foreign brand -- albeit one selling cheap hamburgers rather than luxury clothing -- would be in Ginza.
